Great cities, fantastic beaches and a buoyant property market mean that the coast of light is no longer in the Costa del Sol's shadow.
The Spanish coast is usually associated with high-rise apartments and hotels, as in Benidorm and Torremolinos, or glamour, marinas and villas, as in Marbella and Sotogrande, yet there is a significant part of the coast that resembles neither.
Covering a virtually unbroken stretch of beach from Ayamonte on the border
with Portugal to Tarifa at the entrance to the Straits of Gibraltar, the
Costa de la Luz makes up the Atlantic section of the Andalucian coastline.
The strong, pure light that characterises this unspoiled region is the source
of its name. In spite of its unmistakable beauty and the fact th
at it was
historically more important than the Mediterranean coast, the Costa de la
Luz is less developed and not nearly as well known as its eastern neighbour,
the Costa del Sol.
How can it be that a coastline with some of the best beaches in Spain receives far fewer visitors than other, relatively less well-endowed costas? One of the reasons is the local climate, which sporadically turns the area into a wind-harassed expanse of shifting sands and howling gusts. Although such conditions can be quite harsh at times, they occur only during a relatively small part of the year and have allowed this coast to remain largely unspoiled and refreshingly free of tower blocks and crowds. Generally overlooked by conventional tourists, the area is now a favourite with campers, water sport enthusiasts, naturists and the Andalucians themselves, as well as proving increasingly attractive to those in search of a life in the sun away from large concentrations of expatriates.
What draws foreigners to places like Chiclana?
"It's very traditional. Some people might say it is still
a bit primitive, but we like it that way. Go down to the local venta and
you're still likely to see a horse or a mule in the car park. What
also appeals to buyers is the fact that there is still a relatively small
British population - and no fish and chip shops."
Maria Jose Gomez Gonzalez
of Costa de la Luz Homes.
What kind of people does the region appeal to?
"All sorts. Most of our early clients were active retirees, but
there are more and more younger people coming out, including families with
school-age children. The area suits people who are more independent and
adventurous."
Maria Jose Gomez Gonzalez of
Costa de la Luz Homes.
"We find this area appeals to people looking for more than sunshine.
They want to immerse themselves in the culture. We are also seeing a lot
of young professionals buying both for investment and pleasure."
Chris Mercer of Mercers Ltd.
What characterises the property market - and is it very good value for money?
"The main difference between this coast and the other costas is
the lack of property and building land available. There will never be the
same volume of property, leading to a supply-demand situation that will
contribute to property prices rising in the future."
Chris Mercer of Mercers Ltd.
"Prices in this area are lower than in most other parts of Spain.
For example, you can buy a villa with a private garden and swimming pool
for the same price as an apartment on the Costa del Sol. Prices are continuing
to rise as the area grows in popularity."
Gary Carter of Oyster-IPC Ltd.
What are the services and facilities in the region like?
"The Costa de la Luz is behind in infrastructure and development,
but therein lies its charm! Ideally, for those looking for services and
medical care, the best choice would be Chiclana or Conil, those being the
larger towns. There are local schools in all towns and villages, with private
bilingual schools in Chiclana and an international school in Sotogrande."
Paula Davey of Tarifa Direct.
Has there been a reaction to the high TV coverage in the UK?
"The increase in interest in this area has grown immensely. People
are searching for the true flavour of Andalucia and space. This part of
Spain is still unspoiled and has not been bulldozed for high-rise buildings
and overpopulation. You can still walk the hills and not come across a soul,
just the occasional cow or goat. You can also still enjoy the wonderful
white stretches of beach, contemplating magical sunsets without being trodden
on."
Paula Davey of Tarifa Direct.
The Costa de la Luz is a 200-kilometre stretch of Atlantic coast split by the Coto Donana nature reserve, where the beaches and pine-covered dunes give way to marshes, lagoons and salt pans. Roughly speaking, the region west of Donana constitutes the coast of the province of Huelva, while the eastern section makes up the Atlantic shore of Cadiz. Although both are distinguished by their excellent beaches, each has its own history, characteristics and visitors. The sporadic resort developments on the Huelva coast cater mainly for tourists from Seville. During the summer holidays, resorts like Isla Cristina, Punta Umbria and Matalascanas fill up with large numbers of Spanish families drawn by the fine beaches and excellent selection of seafront restaurants that offer the local speciality: freshly landed fish and seafood. Like Huelva, further to the west, Isla Cristina is an important fishing port, home to a fleet of tuna and sardine trawlers that harvests the rich fishing grounds of the Atlantic.
The largest beach resort on the Huelva coast is Matalascanas, where thousands holiday in the summer months. Even though it's extremely lively during peak season, the resort's hotels and apartments soon give way to long stretches of dune and forest in the west, and the wild peace of the Coto Donana on its eastern fringe. Busy resorts notwithstanding, there are still beaches where, even at the height of summer, you can be alone and out of sight of man-made structures. Spots like Playa de Canela and the narrow sandbank of El Rompido are hard to reach, but it is exactly this isolation which makes them so private.
Although it has long been a Spanish domain, foreigners are discovering the western Costa de la Luz, buying holiday homes in purpose-built resort areas that offer beautiful, open beaches backed by sandstone cliffs and coastal pine and an increasing number of golf courses, marinas, quality hotels and other facilities, yet retain real Spanish charm and large expanses of open country. People who buy property in this part of the Costa de la Luz are also attracted by the fact that property here is still considerably cheaper than on the more developed costas. As a newly-developing area, the relatively low entry price level combines with good capital growth potential to offer excellent longer term investment prospects.
A good road network offers quick and easy access to bustling Spanish towns like Huelva, Ayamonte and, of course, the gorgeous city of Seville, while the Algarve is just a short drive away. The international airports at Seville, Jerez and Faro, which have direct connections to cities in the UK, are within an hour and a half's drive, and the frequency of flights continues to grow.
There have been problems with unscrupulous developers in the Costa de la Luz.
Chris Mercer explains how buyers can protect themselves. We've seen a lot in the press about illegal and semi-legal building on the Costa de la Luz lately.
Which areas are the most affected?
"It would appear that the areas to be wary of are in and around Chiclana/Pago del Humo, Colorado and Conil. Of course, there are illegal properties in other areas but it seems that most unscrupulous agents are targeting these areas."
Does the age of the property matter? Buyers might assume that a new property will have reliable paperwork.
"No, we are hearing of a lot of new builds that are illegal. This can result in a large fine for the purchaser (not the builder) and the property being demolished."
Does it tend to be larger properties that are affected?
"No, the law applies equally to large or small properties"
What about apartments? Are they more likely to be safe? We have seen cases in other regions, notably Valencia, where whole apartment blocks have been taken down.
"Again, the law does not discriminate on building types or size. However, on the Costa de la Luz the problems that have been encountered have tended to be with detached villas."
Are illegal add-ons common on the Costa de la Luz?
"No more so than any other area of Spain. What is very important, though, is to ask your lawyer to check that any extensions, pools, etc, have the correct planning permissions. The house on the title deed should match the house you are buying, without any new additions."
What's the best way for people looking at homes on the Costa de la Luz to avoid buying an illegal or semi-legal property?
"First of all make sure that you use an established, reputable estate agent. They should deal only in properties that are 100 per cent legal. They will also be able to point you in the direction of a good lawyer, who will look after your interests and make sure that the home you think you are buying is what you are actually buying."
"To sum up, the Costa de la Luz does not have the volume of properties that
the other costas have, and so what is available is in great demand. This
in turn leads to many properties coming onto the market through unscrupulous
agents that can best be described as 'legally grey' and many
that are 100 per cent illegal.
Many people think that they are saving money by not using accredited
agents or lawyers; unfortunately this is not the case and more often than
not this 'saving' can end up costing them a lot more than they
bargained for."
Chris Mercer of Mercers Ltd.
You
can contact Mercers Ltd. on 0044 1491 574 807 or visit the website at www.spanishproperty.co.uk
Within this area lies evidence of the many civilisations that have touched its shores. Phoenician, Carthaginian and Greek traders founded ports like Cadiz and Punta Umbria almost 3,000 years ago, while the Roman ruins at Bolonia come right up to what is one of the finest beaches on the coast. Later history is represented too, in places such as Palos de la Frontera. Though it is now a sleepy village with a harbour that has long since silted up, Palos was the port from which Christopher Columbus set off on his epic journey in 1492. The Costa de la Luz, however, played host not only to merchants and navigators, but also to fleets of naval and pirate ships.
The most famous of the many sea battles fought off its coast must certainly be Admiral Nelson's victory over a Franco-Spanish fleet at the beautiful Cape Trafalgar, now exactly 200 years ago. The Cadiz coast is the better known part of the Costa de la Luz, drawing a wide variety of diverse visitors. The coastal towns of Sanlucar de Barrameda, Chipiona, Rota and Puerto de Santa Maria, which are all on the Bay of Cadiz, are famous throughout Spain for their fish and seafood restaurants.
The marshy salt flats on the inner curve of the Bay of Cadiz lead into the lively edges of the province's capital, also called Cadiz. The old town, crammed on the tip of a narrow sand bar, is packed full of history, architecture, tradition and atmosphere, much of it showing influences from overseas that have been brought here by merchants and navies.
The city's unique look and feel becomes evident as soon as you enter its maze of Moorish style houses, large domed churches and impressive mansions from the Baroque period. Said to be the oldest city in Europe, Cadiz is a port city where the cultures of Spain and Latin America merge visibly, as well as a university city with a 200-year old liberal tradition. Famous for its lively carnival in February, Cadiz is a unique experience.
The only question that remained was where?
"Having seen a lot of southern Spain and made up our mind that it is was to the Costa de la Luz that we wanted to move, we started preparing well in advance. I took Spanish lessons back in England, so we would be able to settle in more quickly, and closer to the time we came down on a number of trips to look for a property. We found it in a little coastal town called Chiclana de la Frontera."
What made you choose the Costa de la Luz?
"What made you choose the Costa de la Luz?
Our move to Spain was as much about a new, free way of life as it was
about sun and natural beauty. We liked the feel of this area, its friendly
people and scenery. We didn't want to move to a resort area and
become the kind of expatriates who don't speak the language and
know nothing about the country."
How has it been?
"What made you choose the Costa de la Luz?
Our move to Spain was as much about a new, free way of life as it was about
sun and natural beauty. We liked the feel of this area, its friendly people
and scenery. We didn't want to move to a resort area and become the
kind of expatriates who don't speak the language and know nothing about
the country."
Was it difficult to find a property?
"No, much less so than I expected. This area is still a fair bit cheaper than other parts of Spain and a lot cheaper than the UK, so after we'd sold our home in England we were in a position to buy something here and put money in the bank. After exploring the entire coast we found a small house on a large plot of land. At €150,000 it was cheap and had lots of space and scope for expansion."
Why Chiclana?
"The prices are good, we found the kind of property we were looking for and we like the fact that it is a little town with a Spanish community. It's also very central, on the coast yet close to places like Cadiz, Tarifa and the Costa del Sol."
What are the good points?
"There are lots, but the thing that stands out for me is the sense of community and safety. It's like Britain was 40 years ago; safe, friendly and focused on family life. Children are adored, old people respected and included in everyday life, and no-one is left out. We were made to feel very welcome, and the fact that we have a son in school here has made it even easier, so we have Spanish, British and German friends. The weather, nature and safety make it a great place for children."
The good points?
I can't really think of many. Yes, the Andalucians are a bit more noisy than us, but it is not done in a threatening way. Maybe some things are not as organised as back home, but they are improving very quickly."
What advice would you give people thinking of moving here?
Take time to get to know the area and to look for the right property, but above all, come and see it. A very high percentage of people who get to know this area fall in love with it."
The Costa de la Luz reverts to its more usual, rural character just south of the city of Cadiz at the pretty white coastal village of Chiclana de la Frontera. From here, flat agricultural land is succeeded by the foothills of the Serrania de Ronda, which fall, uncultivated, down to the sea. The combination of beaches, cliffs with pine-covered slopes and wide empty bays produces one of the most attractive coastal regions in southern Spain.
The open spaces of Canos de Meca have made it a mecca for nudists from all over Europe, while campers and hikers are attracted by the open spaces further east. Sandwiched between these freethinking groups are a military test range and the sleepy fishing villages of Barbate and Zahara de Atunes.
Foreigners wishing to enjoy a peaceful way of life surrounded by nature and Andalucian culture have been coming here for several decades now. Scattered among the white-plastered coastal and mountain villages, you will find the often beautifully renovated homes of Britons, Germans and other Northern Europeans who have integrated happily into their surroundings. Many open boutique hotels, restaurants, art galleries or, increasingly, work from their laptop, while others have forsaken civilisation completely to live in farmhouses in remote parts of the countryside.
The final stretch of the Costa de la Luz, nearest the Costa del Sol, is perhaps its most famous; the same winds that at times stir up the sand and make life on the beach hard have given the town of Tarifa legendary status among windsurfers, kite surfers and other watersport enthusiasts. A bohemian atmosphere has grown up around this beach culture, with hippies and bikers adding to the laid-back feel of this ancient stronghold.
It all started in the late 1960s, when a group of French surfers discovered the area, and by the 1980s Tarifa had become the unofficial 'surf capital' of Europe, home to not only an international community of surfer types, but also one of the last strongholds of hippie culture. Since then, Tarifa's growing reputation as the capital of 'laid-back cool' has made it a much-loved trendy alternative vacation spot, while small urban developments and resort areas cater for new visitors and residents in search of a free lifestyle in the sun. Dotted with towns and coastal resorts, rather than swamped with an extensively built up sprawl of tourist and residential developments, the Costa de la Luz is one of the most authentic, natural and diverse coastlines on the Spanish seaboard - and long may it remain that way.
Quite a lot, actually…
The beaches
As an area characterised by endless expanses of untamed coastline, it
is not surprising that the Costa de la Luz is famous for two things: its
marvellous unspoiled beaches and the clear blue Atlantic waters that wash
them. From Ayamonte on the Portuguese border to Tarifa at the entrance
to the Mediterranean there is an almost unbroken expanse of sand, sea
and big skies.
Great for sports
The conditions are ideal for an outdoor lifestyle - a fact that's
been noted by watersports enthusiasts from across Europe, who flock there
for the laid-back atmosphere. Tarifa, Europe's kite-surfing capital,
plays host to a full season of international competitions.
Artistic
The languid atmosphere of Tarifa also attracts hippies, artists and other
bohemians. Together with the surfers, they have contributed greatly to
the little town's reputation as a trendy, alternative resort full
of boutique hotels, informal low-rise beachside resorts and budget accommodation - not
to mention a seaside 'chill' culture all of its own.
The view
From Tarifa and beaches to its west you can see right across the blue
waters to the North African shoreline. On a clear day you can make out
seaside villages in Morocco, while regular ferry and high-speed jetfoil
shuttles to Tangier offer visitors a closer look.
It's natural
Large parts of the Costa de la Luz are protected from overdevelopment,
including the expansive nature reserves of the marshy Donana and
the mountainous Los Alcornocales, where imperial eagles, vultures, flamingos
and the Iberian lynx still find space. The protected areas also include
offshore areas, where boats take you out to see schools of whales and
dolphins.
Great food
The Mediterranean may be famous for dishes such as paella, but gourmets
swear the best seafood in Spain comes from the Atlantic. If you've
got a taste for it you'll be impressed at the local fish markets,
delighted at the romantic sight of fishermen selling their catch fresh
off their little wooden boats and in your element at the many simple beachside
restaurants. There you can indulge in fresh seafood and dry white wine
within earshot of the breaking waves.
Cadiz
The ancient port city of Cadiz offers history, museums, architecture
and atmosphere. Cadiz has a unique character and is great for seafood
restaurants, exploring, marvellous unexpected vistas and the riotous February
carnival. In summer, international regattas come to town.
Sherry country
Half an hour's drive north of Cadiz lies Jerez de la Frontera,
home of sherry. You'll know you're there as soon as you see
the vineyards that cover the hillocks all around it. Sherry bodegas offer
an insight into a quintessentially Anglo-Spanish tradition, as does Jerez' annual
horse fair, which celebrates the region's equestrian heritage.
This article was kindly provided by Spanish Homes. If you would like to more about the Costa de la Luz, click here to subscribe to Spanish Homes.
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Cadiz is thought to be the oldest city of Europe, however the old town - Gadir - is said to rest under the sea...
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